Southern Turkey (November 17th - November 26th)(continued)
I must be getting close to the desert, my first camel sightings.
One of the reasons for my decision to take the more remote roads to Syria is the difference in hospitality between those places off the beaten path and those who see tourists on a regular basis. In my route south I strayed off the main roads when I could and have discussed the incredible warmth and generosity of the people. The children in the small villages are curious and a little shy when I ride by but they always have big smiles and are eager to wave and try out their limited English with an eager "hello." The difference with the tourist destinations was obvious when I cycled into Selcuk, near the ruins of Ephesus. I was on the main road and came up a few young boys on the side of the road and the first thing they yelled on my approach was "money, money." It highlighted the main problem with children in the richer towns. I witnessed some tourists throwing children money, pens and candy and it makes me shake my head and wonder why they would do this. To throw children objects for no reason spoils them and they start expecting it from others. These children do not need coins or candy and that habit from probably well-meaning tourists is the last thing that should be occurring. It is turning the kids into beggars and will reinforce their behaviour for years. Their parents are probably teaching them to find work to earn their own money but if they can get it from simply asking, why bother? The aggressive children combined with pushy restaurant and carpet shop owners makes me yearn for the quiet and friendly villages that do not offer much in terms of sites but more than compensate by providing a glimpse into the real hospitality of the Turkish people. I am on the receiving end of this hospitality for making the effort to see those who don't often get foreigners in their towns. It is becoming clear that although the presence of tourists provides an economic boom the increased wealth has made the local people less hospitable and anxious to make more money. The one common but ironic theme that has repeated itself in each country I have visited is that those with the least are the most willing to share what they have with others.
On Saturday November 27th I will continue south towards the Syrian border. I am now further north so anticipate that it will take another week to get there. Since it is fairly remote I will do some wild camping until arriving in the City of Aleppo, provided I get across the border without having a visa in advance. If they do not let me through, I'll have to reconsider my route at that time. Each day is certainly an adventure out here.